MANAOAG: A NAME WITH A HISTORY

Manaoag is almost 400 years old. Progress and modernity has altered the landscape but much of its natural features remain. The winding rivers that have carried water from the mountain streams up north to the Lingayen Gulf still flow their course. The hills, once verdant with the thick forests are still there but are now laid baulk by the inroads of human civilization. Traces of its early recorded history can be seen of the churchyard and the cemetery which have been built several centuries ago. And there are few old houses built according to the design of glass-covered bungalows and two storey residences.

I. MANAOAG, ITS BEGINNING

Manaoag occupies an idyllic site. It lies where the chain of low hill that is part of the Sierra Madre ranges meet with the wide level plain of Central Luzon. It shares common boundary with Pozorrobio in the north of Binalonan and Laoac in the northwest. It is traversed by three narrow rivers and several smaller streams that win their way up west. Centuries of silting raised the beds of these rivers and during the rainy months they swell easily. Very often they cause floods that cause havoc to life and property. Almost every year, the southern barrios get cut off from the poblacion when the flood waters carry away the weak wooden bridges that span the rivers.

Manaoag has an area of about 9,660 hectares and a population of 7,000 (Circa 1976). The chief industry of the people is farming and the main crops are rice and sugar cane. Other crops are tobacco, vegetables, peanuts and corn. Minor industries are handicrafts, livestock raisin and quarrying.

The town of the first mechanized sugar mill in the country but at the present the Hind Sugar Central is the smallest in the country. The reason for this is the absence of large sugarcane lands. There are many marginal planters who see, their cane to quota holders of this and other centrals in neighboring Tarlac province. Millers here are small cane planters whom own small sized plantations. Others mill cane in small presses called “Darapilan” and produce molasses (brown sugar)which they sell to manufacturers of “Bucayo” in Calasiao and Dagupan City. Still, others ferment the cane juice into vinegar of “Basi”.

Outside its boundary, Manaoag is known more as pilgrimage town than anything else. Every Saturday and Sunday, thousands of people converge in this town to hear mass in the venerable Catholic Church. Center of devotion is the Lady of the Rosary otherwise known locally as Nuestra Senora de Manaoag or just plain “Apo Baket”. The Ivory image of the lady which is enriched in the high altar of the Church is several centuries old and is said to possess miraculous powers. Pilgrimage reach its peak during the Lenten Season in May and October during the Feast of the Holy Rosary.

ITS BEGINNING:

The earliest known history of Manaoag tells us that it began as a small Settlement on the of Cawili, now the town of San Jacinto. In about the year 1600 some people set up settlement on the west side of what is known today as the Baloquin River. They build their houses of bamboo and cogon, grass both of which grew abundantly in the hills nearby. The settlement grew and prospered and became the envy of the mountain tribes in the north. Very often these hardly mountaineer would come down and raid the settlement, the inhabitants would flee in terror and seek refuge in the nearby bamboo forests.

Later on, a Christian mission was set up in the place. There were times when the priest came and could not find the natives. Then they would say “Fugaron” ( they have fled) and would point to a place nearby where the natives fled for safety. From the word came the name “Pugaro” which became the name of the barrio north of the Poblacion.

THE EARLY MISSIONS

The earliest Christian mission in Manaoag was established by the Augustinians between sometimes 1595 and 1600. The province of Pangasinan was then under their pastoral care and missionaries from Lingayen occasionally visited the settlement by the Baloquin river. In time the people of the settlement were converted to Christianity and a small mission chapel was built to serve the religious needs of the settlers. The mission was placed under the patronage of Sta. Monica and for sometime Manaoag was simply known as the mission of Sta. Monica.

At about the same time however, the Augustinians withdrawing from Pangasinan to Zambales and the Ilocos Region, so Bishop Diego de Soria, O.P. who was at the time the Archbishop and governor of Manila and also administrator of the province of Pangasinan offered the province to his Dominican conference. The earliest Dominican arrived in Pangasinan at Binalatongan (now San Carlos City) in 1598, and in the year 1600, they took over the Mangaldan mission of Sta. Monica. Since Mangaldan was the nearest Dominican outpost of Manaoag, the mission of Sta. Monica by the Baloquin river was taken over by the Mangaldan mission. The first Dominican priest to work in the mission was not until 1608, however, that the Sta. Monica mission was formally accepted by the provincial chapter of the Dominican order. In 1610 Fr. Tomas Jimenez, O.P. took over the mission as the first resident priest.

RELOCATION OF THE MISSION

The residency of the priest in the Christian community of Sta. Monica did not, however stop the predations of the mountain tribes upon the settlement. Moved by his concern for the safety of the settlers and upon the urging of Fr. Juan de San Jacinto, Fr. Jimenez moved the settlement across the river in what is now the present poblacion. But even with this move, the Dominican father knew the incursing of the pagan tribes will continue, and that only the super power of Divine Providence can assure the safety of the people. And so as true advocate of the virgin Mary the Dominican fathers placed the settlement under her care and under the title as Queen of the Holy Rosary.

Accordingly, Fr. Jimenez built a chapel of light material for the relocated community and placed in its altar the ivory image of the Lady of the Rosary which father Juan de San Jacinto brought along from Spain via Acapulco.

For their part, the people matched the favor of their pastor to their devotion to the mother of Christ. They learned the prayers and devoting to the Mother of Christ. They learned the prayers and devoting fervently and for this, they earned bountiful merits from her.

II. SON I WANT A CHURCH

She appeared.

Folk traditions had it that the Blessed Mother showed herself to a middle aged farmer and gave him the message on where she wanted her church to be located. The meeting was dramatic. She showed herself on a low tree amidst the glow of heavenly light.

It is said that the man was on his way from a grueling day in his farm. Foremost in his mind, of course, was his family. He worried about his home and his crops which he knew would be laid to waste any time the raiders come for another depredation. Faced with this hopeless prospect, he resorted to the wellsprings of his faith. He has been taught by the good Padre to have full trust and faith in the goodness and mercy of God and in the protection offered by the Heavenly Mother. These thought came into him. He signed resignedly to Virgin Mary and somehow his fears vanished as he continued his slow homeward. As he followed the path from the hill in the deepening dusk, he became aware of a mysterious light coming from somewhere. He turned to the west to assure himself that he was not being deceived, and sure enough he saw that the sun has set. He made a full and turned his gaze to the light- a tree nearby. Instantly he recognized the radiant face of a woman holding an infant in her arms. Unable to grasp that significant of the Phenomenom and overcome by superstition, he wanted to run. In a moment of hesitation, he heard a sweet voice called out his name. He stood transfixed at the smiling face of the mysterious Lady. He kept down, she continued in her singularly sweet voice. “Son I want a church built here in my honor. My children shall receive many favors in this place.

THE TRADITION:

We can surmise that such joy that extraordinary experience would not remain locked up in the breast of the man but would overflow to others. Conceivably he told his tale to his wife and children then to his close relatives and friends. But when he went to tell it to the Padre he got a different reception. The old Padre not only did not believe him but went on to insinuate that the man was suffering from hallucination that was induced by the extreme heat of the DAY.

We can imagine the dismay of the man about reaction from his spiritual counselor. He and his fellows in the settlement have been monitored on the love and veneration of the Blessed Lady of the Rosary, and in a moment of truth should be asked to reject the revelation of her. And yet he was witness of it wall.

Nevertheless, the story spread far and wide. People in the neighboring settlements heard of it and they came to verify it. These went home not only assured in the truth but they also felt that their petitions have been answered. The pilgrimage to the Lady developed into a least once a year to fulfill a vow, make new petition to her, and offer their devotion to her, and offer her their devotions.

THE NAME:

The birth of the tradition came with the birth of a new name of the settlements. Coming home from their visit to the Lady and on being asked along the way from hence they came, the early pilgrims would point to the general directions of the settlement and answer “ Dimad Apo ya Mantatawag”, or from the Lady who Calls.

It is significant to note in their answer showed their spontaneous belief in the “revelations”, of the Blessed Virgin. That they referred to the place as “Where the Virgin Calls”, rather that Sta. Monica, means that they placed more significance to the “ingredients rather that the place”.

In time the rest of the words in the phrase were dropped and a derivation was substituted- MANAOAG. This remained the name of the town.

The traditional pilgrimages continue to this day. The early pilgrims came in animal- drawn carts from as far as the Ilocos Region, Zambales and Tarlac. Old people recall the long caravans that used to come during the Holy week. Now they come in chartered buses from as far as Cagayan Valley and Southern Tagalog. Others come in Cadillacs, Mustangs, Toyotas, Beetles, and Minicas. The poor, the wealthy the educated, the ignoramus, the sinners and the near saints-all come to the “calling Virgin” to find favor and spiritual consolation from her. And they go away feeling satisfied and rewarded.

THE SANCTUARY CHURCH OF MANAOAG:

History tells us that a crude chapel made of light materials and nipa was erected on the spot where the Virgin is laid to have appeared. On its altar was erected on the spot where the Virgin is laid to have appeared. On its altar was placed the Spanish statue of our Lady of the Holy Rosary which Fr. Juan de San Jacinto brought from Mexico. But in order to give the Virgin a more fitting house for venerations, a large wooden church was erected by Fr. Diego de Ballesteros. He erected it side by side with the original mission chapel of Sta. Monica in Baloquin river. The construction was meticulously supervised by the priest who call the time believed that alleged vision of the rural folk was merely the product of the tropical heat in this side of the world.

However, about the year 1669 or 1670 when the new church was completed and the transfer of the image was set, a mysterious incident happened. In the morning of that day a large crowed assembled by the nipa chapel to; accompany the Lady to her home. But the devout congregation was struck dumb when some people rushed in nervously shouting that the new church has disappeared. The priest and some of the people rushed tox verufy the news. Indeed what they found told the truth. They could not find any trace of the church not even a scrap of wood could be found on the site short of banditry for the site looked as if nothing had bounched the virgin soil. The people gave countless interpretations of the mystery, but everybody agreed that the Lady did not want her throne at any other place except at the spot she indicated, in her appearance several decades ago.

The enthusiasm of the inhabitants and the pilgrims became even more ardent after the disappearance of the Baloquin church. Everyone was more convinced that the vision was true, that it was divine land and more could hinder it. Hence, plans were laid out to build a larger and stronger church made of bricks to replace the small rundown chapel.

At the start of the eighteenth century, in 1701, 1 every devout  Spanish caballero and a member of the Dominican Third Order, Don Gaspar Gamboa and his wife Dona Agatha Yangta came out promise to shoulder whatever cost the construction would incur. In the same year, the construction was started. Many laborers were hired but there were others who volunteered their services. As others baked clay for the bricks, others would carry the finished materials to the construction site where they were place on the planned area. Day by day the new church took shape. In not time it was finished and look and, behold it was a magnificent edifice. The natives and especially the pilgrims were delighted at the new home of the Blessed Mother.

The façade of the church gaped with three big doors. Above each of these were three huge wooden windows that gave enough light and color to the choir left. To the left, a soaring cylindrical tower of monumental beauty was built, of solid stones.

Simultaneously with the construction of the new church, Don Gaspar built a big chapel of bricks near the Baloquin river. This was not to replace the church that mysteriously disappeared, but as a respiratory of the image since all penitential processions of the pilgrims traditionally started to this point, not a trace of this church can be found today; for each stone and brick has been carried away by pilgrims who treasured relics and souvenirs of this visit to the ever watchful Virgin of Manaoag.

THE TURNOVER:

In 1722 Don Gaspar, the chief patron of new church, signed the perpetual document turning over the edifice and the Baloquin chapel to the Dominican Province of the Holy Rosary. He did not, however, live long to enjoy praying the church built, he was called by his creator soon after. On April 13, his wife Dona Agatha his wife rectified the donations of her husband before the civil court in Lingayen.

Having taken possession and care of the sanctuary, church, and the Dominican fathers started renovating the interior in 1739. Rosary images were installed to enhance the splendor of the interior, and a thick wall was built to the divide the nave in order to give room to a spacious sacristy. The remodeling took 30 years to finish but the real artistic touch was yet to follow. In 1777, huge columns were erected at the sides of the chapel of Our Lady. Each one supported a medallion representing each one of the 15 mysteries of the Rosary. Also, in addition that year, the Lady was enthroned in a case gilded with solid silver.

AND DISASTER CAME:

As years went by, countless merits of the church were recorded. It withstood calamities but in 1832 to 1833 four successive earthquakes so weakened the structure and it crumbled to pieces. After that catastrophe, a make shift shelter inside the remaining walls was built for our Lady so the congregation and pilgrims could continue their devotions to her and they despite the inconveniences.

Paradoxically, for reasons unknown no immediate effort was made to piece together the church, instead a huge bell weighing 2,000 kilos was purchased in 1840. The bell pealed through the years as if the Lady herself calling the faithful to her. And whenever it rang, it added festive and soul lifting air to the atmosphere.

It took long years to build the church. The priest made a study of materials and they decided that corrugated galvanized iron was a better roof than tiles. But hardly had the roof been placed, when 1880 together intense earthquake struck and damage the church. The soaring tower cracked from the top bottom and was condemned as hazard. It was manually torn down and its bells were lowered down. For a long period of time the bells stayed under the trees behind the church, exposed to the vagaries of nature.

Two years later, in 1882, Fr. Hilario del Campo commenced the restoration of damage portions of the church. Wanting to make sturdier and larger structure, he made deep drilling at the transepts ad filled these with concrete. The four huge columns that support the dome of the present church rest on the 10-meter foundation which he laid. Repair and restoring work has gone for a decade and was nearing completion when every new addition buckled down.

Thus, everything that remained had to razed to the ground once more.

To provide shelter for our Lady of the Rosary and a repository of the sacred vessels including the silver altar, a small bamboo chapel was built at the site of the church a new by making use of the old rubbles. Huge reinforcing columns, 3 meters in diameter were built to reinforce the walls. By 1896 when the wings and roofing of revolution were blowing, the thick walls were already standing and roofing it has started. The work, however, was badly hampered by the revolution. The priest hid themselves from the insurgents and the laborers were outlawed.

THE FLIGHT:

Inevitably, the Spanish priest were captured and brought to Manila as detainees. But before that, Fr. Jose Puente, O.P. was able to smuggle to image of our Lady from Manaoag to Dagupan for safekeeping.

The flight of the image from Manaoag to Dagupan was no less heroic than the earlier trials. Fr. Puente knew that this attempts, cannot be kept secret from the people and that the sooner or later the insurgents would know about it. He was sure that there as an attempt to capture the image and him with it. He also knew that he could rely on no one except on his faith in the Divine Providence.

He loaded the image in a carabao- cart and started for Dagupan. On the way, simple peasant men volunteered to accompany him. Armed with bolos, fought the insurgents who staged an ambush. Not a few of them sacrificed their lives in that battle.

Finally, the Lady reached Dagupan as if in exile. She took shelter in Dagupan church. Every now and then news would leak that the insurgents would ransack the church and divest it of its precious ornaments and sacred vessels. But every time these plots became known, pios laymen, especially the Dominican teriaries would secretly bring the image to their homes. Here, the Lady who is the refuge of sinners became a refugee from sinners.

Meanwhile, on May 10, 1898, the ravaging insurgents ransacked the makeshift chapel in Manaoag and divested it of the treasures that were still housed there…. the gold silver and bronze wares, the sacred vessels, chandeliers, candelabra, the silver throne of Our Lady are numerous religious articles. After having looted the church of its valuables, the insurgents burned it down.

Looting of the churches was the order of the day during this period. the insurgents were in bad need of metals to cast the cannons, firearms and ammunitions. Even the vicar general of Vigan Fr. Gregorio Aglipay, made several circular letters admonishing and ordering Catholic Parish priest to hand over to the military at the Jefature in Dagupan the much needed metals from their churches ”for the sake of God and country.”

THE RETURN OF THE DOMINICANS TO PANGASINAN

The Philippines church suffered a lot during the Filipino-Spanish American War. Parochial churches in Pangasinan that were manned by Spanish Dominicans were left without shepherds. A wave of nationalism brought about demands that these churches be turned over to Filipino clergy.

During those bad times, an exemplary and saintly priest came to the succor of the abandoned flock in Manaoag, he was Fr. Mariano Pacis. He built a small convent and a bible chaper where the scattered flock could gather to fulfill their religious obligations and to pray for better times. It was probably because of this that Manaoag was saved from holocaust of the insurrection.

The war ended with the Treaty of Paris. The Spanish priests were again permitted to return to their former post. But with all the raging agitation for the Filipination of Parishers, the Spanish Dominicans refused to return to Pangasinan. However, the Bishop of Nueva Segovia, initiated there return at least to their first establishment in Pangasinan. Finally they accede to the pleas of high ecclesiastical authority, but instead of Binalatongan (now San Carlos City) they chose the Sanctuary of Manaoag which was donated to the province of the Holy Rosary with inalienable rights.

At the end of 1901, the Dominican Provincial sent there priest to Manaoag, namely; Fr. Cipriano Pampliegs, Mariano Revilla and Jose Bartolo. They were delighted to find Fr. Pacis in his small convent. Since they could not as yet stay in the old convent because it was occupied by the members of the American Armed Forces, the four priests stayed together in Fr. Pacis’ convent-hut. It was until January 16, 1902 when the Americans moved out that the priest were able to settle in their own house.

Times were bleak and uncertain for the priest. The hangover of anti-Spanish feelings was still around. But for them, a mission has to be done, in particular to care for the Sanctuary of Our Lady. So as soon as they had settled down they set out to roof the unfinished church. But at the outset, they left the wings of the transepts untouched   because of financial difficulties. The covering of the whole church was finally finished in 1906, although much remained to be down in the interior.

Improvement of the interior of the church continued. Every day after mass, sharp at atto hirpings of chisels and hammer filled the interior of the church as workmen etched on the intricate design of the main altar, the niche and the throne of the Blessed Virgin. In 1909 when the church was again fit to be the home of the Heavenly Mother, its image in Dagupan was brought home and enthroned in her own shrine.

All major works on the church were completed between the years 1911 and 1920 except the belfry and the wings of the transports. The restoration of the Blessed Virgin to her original home in the Sanctuary Church however brought in more devotees and pilgrims. In gratitude for favors received they poured in their hard-earned centavos and niches. In this manner, funds were raised to purchase a nickel-plated carriage plated on which her image during processions. This also enables the Dominican Father to finish the work on the colossal dome in 1913. It was in this manner that devotees of May, the Lady of the Most Holy Rosary who themselves built the present church. As it stands today, it measures 89 meters long and 13.5 meters wide. The transept measures 53.50 meters long and 15.10 meters wide. The dome is 35 meters high. The belfry is 40 meters high.

In 1937, the Sanctuary Church of Manaoag was warded the Merit of Recognition by the Philippines Historical Research and Makers Committee through its Chairman Walter Robb and Fr. Miguel Selga, S.J. the historical marker was affixed to the church’s wall near the main door in March that year. Thelbarker reads:

“Administration since 1605 by the Dominicans, the first church of wood lasted a century. The second one which was of stone was built through the generosity of Gaspar and Agatha, and inaugurated in 1720. In 1733 it was donated to the Dominican Corporation, but was destroyed by the earthquake of 1892. The Provincial church, built of wood, was burned during the insurrection of 1898. The reconstruction of the present church began in 1991 with the return of the Dominicans.”

The image of the Nuestra Señora de Manaoag is famous throughout Pangasinan. It was preserved in Dagupan during the revolution, and then taken back to the Sanctuary by the people of Manaoag where it was solemnly crowned on April 21, 1926, in the presence of thousands of faithful, by Mens, Guillermo Piani, Apostolic Delegate to the Philippines.

The plaque was solemnly unveiled on April 14, 1937, by the member of the committees of the Historical Commission with the customary church pageantry. The main speech was delivered by the Bishop of Pangasinan, Msgr. Cesar Guerrero and the response was given by Fr. Basilio Martin, O.P. curator of the Santuary. That day also coincided with the traditional fiesta of Our Lady hence a huge crowd witnessed the occasion.

THE SANCTUARY CHURCH DURING THE WORLD WAR II

The Japanese invasion and subsequent occupation of the country during the WW II did not spare the Sanctuary church from ravages of war. During the initial stages the priests themselves went in hiding and so, for the time, the church was closed. When fighting stopped and an uncertain place returned, the church was once more. However, due to the difficulty of travel and restriction imposed on the movement of the people by the occupation forces, pilgrimages stopped.  The priests came out from hiding and performed services for the few dared attend services.

It was during the liberation period that the church suffered slight damages. Gen. Mc Arthur’s forces landed in nearby San Fabian and from there, they conducted an intense bombing and bombardment of big buildings in the surrounding towns which were suspected housing enemy troops. Eyewitnesses recall how one plane dropped four bombs intended for the church. One cell through the church’s roof but did not explode. In that trial, a religious brother was killed. He was rushing to the church to secure the Image of the Virgin when the bombs fell and exploded.

THE LADY TODAY

The end of the war ushered peace and prosperity. The church was repaired and scars of war were patched up. The pilgrims returned in even greater numbers, presumably to see their Blessed Mother again, and to offer prayers of the thanksgiving for having been spared. For those who suffered misfortunes, they came to seek consolation from the “CALLING VIRGIN.”

Immediately after the liberation, a school was opened beside the church to cater to the youth who have been shut off from school during the war. In no time, the school population exerted pressure on the convent. They crowded the corridors and halls. It soon became apparent that a new residence for the priest was needed.

In 1952 work started on the convent and the belfry. In 2 years both structures were finished and in 1954, the Marian Year, they were inaugurated.

Since then, many more changes and improvements have been introduced in line with the principles and concepts laid down by Vatican II. In 1960 during the period of experimentation on Liturgical Renewal, and elevated wooden platform was built on the people. The Blessed Sacrament was placed on a ledge built into the left forward column of the dome.

In May 1973, the church again suffered minor misfortune. Times were hard and there was great demand for antiques. These motivated the person or persons who might have robbed the Blessed Lady of her Golden Crown and her pendant cross. The crown which has never been recovered was ages-old and the pendant cross used to be pectoral cross of the bishop-saint of Vietnam and the blessed Geronimo Hermosilla. The crown has since been replaced through generous donation of the faithful.

Today, the sanctuary-Church is under the administration and care of Filipino Dominicans. It was turned over to them in 1972, with Rev. Fr. Crispin Marqueses, O.P. as the first prior. He, however, did not stay long in his post due to illness. A year after he was replaced by Rev. Reynaldo Adalid, O.P.

Since the assumption to the office, Fr. Adalid has introduced many improvements with an eye for aesthetic beauty. He replaced the rotten wooden platform of the Sanctuary with an octagonal granolithic marble dais. Decorative electric chandeliers were hung above the presbytery. He also installed and excellent sound system to suit the church’s acoustics. This enhances better communications with the faithful on the word of God during the mass.

Other important additions are the Yamaha organ, a bamboo symphony and a home for the boys who serve as choir of the church. The old pipe organ also been repaired. As of this date, the rotting ceiling above the altar has been replaced and painted.

The interior, the façade and the belfry have been given a new coat of paint. A civic action team of the Philippine Air Force (PAF) is doing the face-lifting, courtesy of General Jose Racundo, in close coordination with Gen. Abraham Mangonon, General Abaya and Major Iglesias. Materials are purchased from cash donations of devotees and patrons of the Manaoag Virgin and Her Shrine

Source: The Golden Book of Our Lady of the Rosary, Manaoag, Pangasinan, 50^th Anniversary of the Canonical Coronation of the Queen of the Most Holy Rosary, 1976

Glitz Magazines, Vol. I No. 3 August 1993 pp. 4-7

Researched by:

AGAPITO I. TABADERO

Municipal Consultant

Mayor’s Office

Manaoag, Pangasinan